A new eco-friendly and water-resistant sunscreen agent: Lecithin-based multilamellar liposomes.

BACKGROUND: UV skin exposure is an important matter of public health, as the worldwide rising prevalence of skin cancers indicates. However, a wide majority of commercially available sunscreens are responsible for ocean ecosystem damages such as coral reef degradation and phytoplankton mortality. AIMS: To answer the urge for new eco-friendly UV filters, we studied the use of lecithin-based multilamellar liposomes (MLLs) of controlled size and elasticity as a bio-sourced and biodegradable alternative to classic sunscreens. These parameters control allows different skin layers targeting. METHODS: The performance of two different MLLs compositions and a commercially available SPF50+ water-resistant liposomal sunscreen was compared on skin explants. SC-MLLs target the stratum corneum and Epi-MLLs the whole epidermis. Preparations were applied prior to skin irradiation. Their efficiencies were evaluated histologically (hematoxylin and eosin staining plus cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer [CPD] immunostaining) and by skin barrier quality assessment (trans-epithelial electrical resistance). Adhesiveness to the skin was also investigated. RESULTS: Altogether, ex vivo results indicate MLLs offer a solar protection as effective as a SPF50+ water-resistant liposomal sunscreen but with a better skin adhesiveness and an improved skin barrier function. CONCLUSION: Lecithin-based MLLs of controlled physicochemical parameters can be used as a new eco-friendly and water-resistant agent for solar protection. The stratum corneum targeted action of SC-MLLs appears to be more interesting, as SC-MLLs exhibit an overall better performance than Epi-MLLs at a lower cost. The skin barrier improvement showcased could be of interest to people suffering from dry skin or skin barrier impairment related disease.

Evaluation of the protection of sunscreen products against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light-induced biological effects.

BACKGROUND: Long wavelength ultraviolet-A1 in combination with visible light induces hyperpigmentation, particularly in dark-skin phototypes. This study evaluated the efficacy of four sunscreen formulations in protecting against VL + UVA1 (370-700 nm). METHODS: The test products (A-D) were applied to the back of 12 volunteers, then irradiated with 320 J/cm2 VL + UVA1 (3.5% UVA1 [370-400 nm]). Immediately after irradiation, and at Days 1, 7, and 14, erythema and pigmentation were assessed by investigator global assessment (IGA), colorimetry (Δa* and ΔITA) and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS)-measured relative dyschromia (area under the curve AUC). Control areas were irradiated without sunscreen. RESULTS: Product D, containing titanium dioxide 11%, iron oxides 1%, and antioxidants, provided the highest and most consistent protection. Compared with unprotected irradiated control, it had statistically significantly less erythema on IGA, DRS (Δoxyhemoglobin), and colorimetry (Δa*) at Day 0; less pigmentation on IGA at all time points, on DRS (relative dyschromia) at Days 7 and 14, and on colorimetry (ΔITA) at Day 0. Product B, containing zinc oxide 12% plus organic UV filters, iron oxides 4%, and antioxidants, also showed some efficacy. CONCLUSION: Of the sunscreens tested, the tinted products provided better protection against VL + UVA1 than the non-tinted products. Since the product with 1% iron oxides was superior to the product with 4% iron oxides, further studies are needed to evaluate whether iron oxide content correlates with better protection.

Assessment of the photoprotective potential and structural characterization of secondary metabolites of Antarctic fungus Arthrinium sp.

Interest in Antarctic fungi has grown due to their resilience in harsh environments, suggesting the presence of valuable compounds from its organisms, such as those presenting photoprotective potential, since this environment suffers the most dangerous UV exposure in the world. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the photoprotective potential of compounds from sustainable marine sources, specifically seaweed-derived fungi from Antarctic continent. These studies led to discovery of photoprotective and antioxidant properties of metabolites from Arthrinium sp., an endophytic fungus from Antarctic brown algae Phaeurus antarcticus. From crude extract, fractions A-I were obtained and compounds 1-6 isolated from E and F fractions, namely 3-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol (1), (-)-orthosporin (2), norlichexanthone (3), anomalin B (4), anomalin A (5), and agonodepside B (6). Compounds 1, 2, and 6 were not previously reported in Arthrinium. Fraction F demonstrated excellent absorbance in both UVA and UVB regions, while compound 6 exhibited lower UVB absorbance, possibly due to synergistic effects. Fraction F and compound 6 displayed photostability and were non-phototoxic to HaCaT cells. They also exhibited antioxidant activity by reducing intracellular ROS production induced by UVA in keratinocyte monolayers and reconstructed human skin models (resulting in 34.6% and 30.2% fluorescence reduction) and did not show irritation potential in HET-CAM assay. Thus, both are promising candidates for use in sunscreens. It is noted that Fraction F does not require further purification, making it advantageous, although clinical studies are necessary to confirm its potential applicability for sunscreen formulations.

Bioconjugation of Vegetable Oils with UV Absorbers: New Approach in Skin Photoprotection.

We reported the tunable synthesis of new vegetable oil-UV filter bioconjugates using sea buckthorn oil (SBO) and p-methoxycinnamic acid (p-MCA) as an alternative to the common UV filter, ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (octinoxate). The synthetic strategy is based on the sustainable ring-opening reaction of epoxidized SBO with p-MCA in heterogenous catalysis in eco-friendly solvents. The amount of UV-absorptive moieties grafted on the triglyceride backbone is controlled by different epoxidation degrees as determined by NMR spectroscopy. The performance of the new UV-absorber bioconjugates was assessed by in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) measurements after inclusion in SBO-ethylcellulose (EC) oleogels and comparison with the SPF value of the SBO-EC-octinoxate oleogel with equivalent p-MCA acid moieties (10% wt/wt). The concentration obtained for the SBO-EC oleogel formulated with the bioconjugate with the lowest degree of functionalization, namely 55%, represents 45% of the SPF determined for the SBO-EC-octinoxate oleogel, regardless of the concentration of measured solutions. The new concept of vegetable oil-UV-absorber bioconjugates has potential UV-B photoprotective properties when included in oleogel formulations and deserves further investigation of their properties and stability including association with UV-A absorbers, respectively.

Microbial consortia degrade several widely used organic UV filters, but a number of hydrophobic filters remain recalcitrant to biodegradation.

Organic UV filters are important ingredients in many personal care products, including sunscreens. Evaluating the biodegradability of organic UV filters is key to estimate their recalcitrance and environmental fate and thus central to their overall environmental risk assessment. In order to further understand the degradation process, the aim was to investigate whether specific consortia could degrade certain UV filters. Several bacterial strains were isolated from enrichment cultures actively degrading octocrylene (OC), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BM), homosalate (HS), and 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (ES) and were utilized to construct an in-house consortium. This synthetic consortium contained 27 bacterial strains and degraded OC, BM, HS, and ES 60-80% after 12 days, but not benzophenone-3 (BP3), methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT), diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DBT), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT), or diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB). Furthermore, several commercial microbial mixtures from Greencell were tested to assess their degradation activity toward the same organic UV filters. ES and HS were degraded by some of the commercial consortia, but to a lesser extent. The rest of the tested UV filters were not degraded by any of the commercial bacterial mixes. These results confirm that some organic UV filters are recalcitrant to biodegradation, while others are degraded by a specific set of microorganisms.

Recent progress in unraveling the biosynthesis of natural sunscreens mycosporine-like amino acids.

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays is a known risk factor for skin cancer, which can be notably mitigated through the application of sun care products. However, escalating concerns regarding the adverse health and environmental impacts of synthetic anti-UV chemicals underscore a pressing need for the development of biodegradable and eco-friendly sunscreen ingredients. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) represent a family of water-soluble anti-UV natural products synthesized by various organisms. These compounds can provide a two-pronged strategy for sun protection as they not only exhibit a superior UV absorption profile but also possess the potential to alleviate UV-induced oxidative stresses. Nevertheless, the widespread incorporation of MAAs in sun protection products is hindered by supply constraints. Delving into the biosynthetic pathways of MAAs can offer innovative strategies to overcome this limitation. Here, we review recent progress in MAA biosynthesis, with an emphasis on key biosynthetic enzymes, including the dehydroquinate synthase homolog MysA, the adenosine triphosphate (ATP)-grasp ligases MysC and MysD, and the nonribosomal peptide synthetase (NRPS)-like enzyme MysE. Additionally, we discuss recently discovered MAA tailoring enzymes. The enhanced understanding of the MAA biosynthesis paves the way for not only facilitating the supply of MAA analogs but also for exploring the evolution of this unique family of natural sunscreens. ONE-SENTENCE SUMMARY: This review discusses the role of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) as potent natural sunscreens and delves into recent progress in their biosynthesis.

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of hair cosmetics using the hemispherical directional reflectance method.

BACKGROUND: Solar radiation is responsible for changes in the structure of human hair, the damages include proteins (65%-95%), lipids, and melanin. The aim was to examine the effectiveness of sunscreen in hair cosmetics and whether hair color affects it. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The study included nine women, divided according to hair color to three groups: light, dark, and gray hair. The 410-Solar reflectometer was used in five time points. The hair was divided into three strands, one product applied to each. RESULTS: Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, the reflectance before products application was significantly higher than the hair reflectance immediately after application. The effect of sunscreens on light hair reflectance was found at wavelengths 400 and 720 nm and between 1000 and 2500 nm, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than the reflectance after. The use of products on gray hair did not have a significant effect on hair reflectance at wavelengths 400-1100 nm, the effect of sunscreens on the gray hair reflectance was observed in the UV and infrared range, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than immediately after. CONCLUSIONS: The results showed that the 410-Solar reflectometer is useful to assess the effectiveness of hair sunscreens. All three tested hair products do not show the expected protection properties. Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, suggesting that dark hair should be more protected against radiation than light and gray hair.

Construction of photo-responsive lignin as a broad-spectrum sunscreen agent.

Lignin has potential to serve as promising sunscreen agents as it has good ultraviolet (UV) absorption and antioxidant properties. However, the weak absorption capacity of lignin in the long-wave UV region (UVA, 320-400 nm) limits its further development. In this work, a spiropyran-modified lignin (DLSP) with photo-responsive property was prepared by in-situ construction of spiropyran (SP) structure in the demethylated lignin (DL). Due to the presence of SP moiety, the absorption of DLSP in the UVA region was significantly improved. Under UV irradiation, its absorption peak was redshifted as unconjugated SP form isomerized to conjugated merocyanine (MC) form, and the UVA/UVB ratio increased from 0.62 to 0.74. The free-radical scavenging ability of lignin could protect SP from photodegradation, which provided DLSP excellent fatigue resistance. DLSP were blended into creams to investigate its sunscreen performance. Results indicated that DLSP exhibited radiation-enhanced sunscreen performance, the sun protection factor (SPF) of cream containing 10 wt% of DLSP improved from 20 to 67 after 8 h of UV irradiation. Moreover, DLSP showed low skin penetration and good biocompatibility. These results provide a useful guideline for the rational design of sunscreens with special functionalities.

Applications of mycosporine-like amino acids beyond photoprotection.

Recent years have seen a lot of interest in mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) because of their alleged potential as a natural microbial sunscreen. Since chemical ultraviolet (UV) absorbers are unsafe for long-term usage, the demand for natural UV-absorbing substances has increased. In this situation, MAA is a strong contender for an eco-friendly UV protector. The capacity of MAAs to absorb light in the UV-A (320-400 nm) and UV-B (280-320 nm) range without generating free radicals is potentially relevant in photoprotection. The usage of MAAs for purposes other than photoprotection has now shifted in favor of medicinal applications. Aside from UV absorption, MAAs also have anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, anti-photoaging, cell proliferation stimulators, anti-cancer agents, and anti-adipogenic properties. Recently, MAAs application to combat SARS-CoV-2 infection was also investigated. In this review article, we highlight the biomedical applications of MAAs that go beyond photoprotection, which can help in utilizing the MAAs as promising bioactive compounds in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Salting-out assisted liquid-liquid extraction combined with LC-MS/MS for the simultaneous determination of seven organic UV filters in environmental water samples: method development and application.

Organic UV filters (OUVFs), the active ingredient in sunscreens, are of environmental concern due to reported ecotoxicological effects in aquatic biota. Determining the environmental concentrations of these chemicals is essential for understanding their fate and potential environmental risk. Salting-out assisted liquid-liquid extraction (SALLE) coupled with liquid-chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was developed for simultaneous extraction, separation, and quantification of seven OUVFs (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl-methoxy-dibenzoyl methane, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, and oxybenzone). Method detection limits (MDLs) ranged from 11 to 45 ng/L and practical quantification limits (PQLs) from 33 to 135 ng/L. Method trueness, evaluated in terms of recovery, was 69-127%. Inter-day and intra-day variability was < 6% RSD. The coefficients of determination were > 0.97. The method was applied to river and seawater samples collected at 19 sites in and near Port Phillip Bay, Australia, and temporal variation in OUVF concentrations was studied at two sites. Concentrations of OUVF were detected at 10 sites; concentrations of individual OUVFs were 51-7968 ng/L, and the maximum total OUVF concentration detected at a site was 8431 ng/L. Recreational activity and water residence time at the site contributed to OUVF's environmental presence and persistence. The benefits of the SALLE-LC-MS/MS method include its simple operation, good selectivity, precision over a wide linear range, and that obtained extracts can be directly injected into the LC-MS/MS, overall making it an attractive method for the determination of these OUVFs in environmental water matrices. To our knowledge, this is the first report of the occurrence of OUVFs in Port Phillip Bay, Australia.

Catching nano: Evaluating the fate and behaviour of nano-TiO2 in swimming pools through dynamic simulation modelling.

Engineered titanium dioxide nanoparticles (nano-TiO2) in consumer products such as sunscreens widely used by swimmers in aquatic settings have raised concerns about their potential adverse impact on ecosystems and human health due to their small size and unique physicochemical properties. Therefore, this research paper aims to investigate the fate and behaviour of nano-TiO2 from sunscreens in swimming pools using System Dynamics Modelling. The study developed a dynamic simulation model that considers various factors, including weather conditions, sunscreen and pool usage behaviour, filtration efficacy, pool maintenance, water chemistry, pool chemicals, and TiO2 concentration levels, which can affect exposure levels for different scenarios. The study considered non-linear interdependent relationships, feedback structures, and temporal changes and dealt with parameter uncertainties through Monte Carlo analyses. The results reveal that the regular use of sunscreen leads to nano-TiO2 concentrations ranging from 0.001 to 0.05 mg/L within a year, reflecting seasonal and pool usage variations. The study also found that changes in the weight percentage of TiO2 in the sunscreen formulation and the filtration duration per day are the most sensitive factors affecting TiO2 concentrations. Scenario analyses exploring different nano-TiO2 removal strategies suggested that one daily turnover is necessary for sufficient removal. Regular manual pool maintenance and monthly use of a pool clarifier are recommended for enhanced and accelerated removal without substantial additional costs. The study is novel in its integrated approach, combining empirical work with dynamic simulations, resulting in a novel approach to model the environmental fate and behaviour of nano-TiO2. The study makes important methodological contributions to the field and has initiated an interdisciplinary collaboration to create more accurate models. This study is of great significance as it presents a pioneering analysis of the impact of sunscreen properties, user behaviour, and environmental stressors on the fate and behaviour of nano-TiO2 in swimming pools.

New developments in sunscreens.

Topical sunscreen application is one of the most important photoprotection tool to prevent sun damaging effects in human skin at the short and long term. Although its efficacy and cosmeticity have significantly improved in recent years, a better understanding of the biological and clinical effects of longer wavelength radiation, such as long ultraviolet A (UVA I) and blue light, has driven scientists and companies to search for effective and safe filters and substances to protect against these newly identified forms of radiation. New technologies have sought to imbue sunscreen with novel properties, such as the reduction of calorific radiation. Cutaneous penetration by sunscreens can also be reduced using hydrogels or nanocrystals that envelop the filters, or by binding filters to nanocarriers such as alginate microparticles, cyclodextrins, and methacrylate polymers. Finally, researchers have looked to nature as a source of healthier products, such as plant products (e.g., mycosporines, scytonemin, and various flavonoids) and even fungal and bacterial melanin, which could potentially be used as substitutes or enhancers of current filters.

Photobiology: Fish eggs go sunny side up.

The UV radiation in sunlight can damage organisms. A new study reveals that female zebrafish deposit a chemical sunscreen into their eggs to protect their developing embryos, a feat that has been lost in fish species whose embryos never experience sunlight.

Health risks posed by environmental benzophenone-type ultraviolet filters (BP-UVFs): An investigation into the binding of BP-UVFs to trypsin and their adverse effects.

Benzophenone-type ultraviolet filters (BP-UVFs) are ubiquitous in the environment, and people frequently ingest them via food chain and drinking water. However, there is no clear information about whether BP-UVFs are detrimental to human health. Herein, experiments using multi-spectroscopy revealed typical BP-UVFs, i.e., benzophenone (BP), 2-hydroxybenzophenone (2-OHBP), 4-hydroxybenzophenone (4-OHBP), 2,2'-dihydroxybenzophenone (2,2'-OHBP), 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (2,4-OHBP), 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone (4,4'-OHBP), 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone (2,4,4'-OHBP), 2,2',4,4'-tetraphydroxybenzophenone (2,2',4,4'-OHBP), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (2-OH-4-MeOBP) and 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (2,2'-OH-4-MeOBP), could bind to the active site of trypsin with different binding constants (2.69 × 104-1.07 × 106 L/mol), cause structural abnormalities and inhibit the enzymatic activity in varying degrees, indicating that the BP-UVFs ingestion poses a risk to human health. In contrast to previous research, this study systematically analysed the binding mechanism using an innovative combination of molecular docking and advanced quantum chemistry calculations, including molecular dynamics simulations, energy calculations, etc. The results revealed that most amino acids that make up trypsin have a greater positive electrostatic surface potential (ESP). Therefore, the greater the area and distribution of negative ESP in a particular BP-UVFs, the more easily it will bind to trypsin. This provides new insight into the binding of pollutants to proteins. This study suggests a need for better monitoring and control of environmental BP-UVFs.

Human-Hair-Derived Natural Particles as Multifunctional Sunscreen for Effective UV Protection.

Excessive ultraviolet (UV) radiation can lead to a series of skin problems. Although commercial sunscreens can protect skin from UV-induced damage to an extent, the side effects caused by such products are still worrisome. Here, inspired by the natural photoprotection effect of human hair, we extracted the multifunctional particles from human hair as sunscreens for UV protection. Both in vitro and in vivo results indicate that hair-derived particles (HDPs) could effectively protect skin from UV radiation. Besides, HDPs retain the antioxidant capability of melanin in hair, which avoids UV-induced oxidative damage. In addition, the unique shape of HDPs can prevent them from penetrating into the skin, thus avoiding potential toxicity. Moreover, owing to their mesoporous structure, the particles can also be used as drug carriers. With the loading of octocrylene, the particles are more effective in blocking UV radiation. This study provides an ingenious tactic for the design and development of sunscreens from a natural substance.

Gadusol is a maternally provided sunscreen that protects fish embryos from DNA damage.

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is harmful to living cells, leading organisms to evolve protective mechanisms against UVR-induced cellular damage and stress.1,2 UVR, particularly UVB (280-320 nm), can damage proteins and DNA, leading to errors during DNA repair and replication. Excessive UVR can induce cellular death. Aquatic organisms face risk of UV exposure as biologically harmful levels of UVB can penetrate >10 m in clear water.3 While melanin is the only known sunscreen in vertebrates, it often emerges late in embryonic development, rendering embryos of many species vulnerable during the earlier stages. Algae and microbes produce a class of sunscreening compounds known as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs).4 Fish eggs contain a similar compound called gadusol, whose role as a sunscreen has yet to be tested despite its discovery over 40 years ago.5 The recent finding that many vertebrate genomes contain a biosynthetic pathway for gadusol suggests that many fish may produce and use this molecule as a sunscreen.6 We generated a gadusol-deficient mutant zebrafish to investigate the role of gadusol in protecting fish embryos and larvae from UVR. Our results demonstrate that maternally provided gadusol is the primary sunscreen in embryonic and larval development, while melanin provides modest secondary protection. The gadusol biosynthetic pathway is retained in the vast majority of teleost genomes but is repeatedly lost in species whose young are no longer exposed to UVR. Our data demonstrate that gadusol is a maternally provided sunscreen that is critical for early-life survival in the most species-rich branch of the vertebrate phylogeny.

Investigating the use of titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles on the amount of protection against UV irradiation.

In this study, three samples of commercial titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO2) in different sizes were used to investigate their effect on the formulation of sunscreen creams. The aim was to evaluate their role in the performance of sunscreens (i.e. SPF, UVAPF, and critical wavelength). Then the particle size of these samples was determined by photon correlation spectroscopy methods. As a result, the size of primary particles was reduced by using milling and homogenization methods at different times. The results showed that the particle size of samples TA, TB, and TC in the ultrasonic homogenizer decreased from 966.4, 2745.8, and 2471.6 nm to 142.6, 254.8, and 262.8 nm, respectively. These particles were used in the pristine formulation. Then the functional characteristics of each formulation were determined by standard methods. TA had the best dispersion in cream compared to other samples due to its smaller size (i.e. 142.6 nm). For each formulation, two important parameters, including pH and TiO2 dosage, were investigated in different states. The results showed that the formulations prepared with TA had the lowest viscosity compared to formulations containing TB and TC. SPSS 17 statistical software analysis of variance showed that the performance of SPF, UVAPF and λc in formulations containing TA had the highest levels. Also, the sample containing TAU with the lowest particle size values had the highest protection against UV rays (SPF). According to the photocatalytic functionality of TiO2, the photodegradation of methylene blue in the presence of each nanoparticle of TiO2 was studied. The results showed that smaller nanoparticles (i.e. TA) had more photocatalytic activity under UV-Vis irradiation during 4 h (TA (22%) > TB (16%) > TC (15%)). The results showed that titanium dioxide can be used as a suitable filter against all types of UVA and UVB rays.

Trace analysis of benzophenone-type UV filters in water and their effects on human estrogen and androgen receptors.

To carry out risk assessments of benzophenone-type UV filters (BPs), fast and accurate analytical methods are crucial to determine and monitor levels in the environment. This study presents an LC-MS/MS method that requires minimal sample preparation and yet can identify 10 different BPs in environmental samples such as surface or wastewater resulting in a LOQ range from 2 to 1060 ng/L. The method suitability was tested through environmental monitoring, which showed that, BP-4 is the most abundant derivative found in the surface waters of Germany, India, South Africa and Vietnam. BP-4 levels correlate with the WWTP effluent fraction of the respective river for selected samples in Germany. Peak values of 171 ng/L for 4-hydroxybenzophenone (4-OH-BP), as measured in Vietnamese surface water, already exceed the PNEC value of 80 ng/L, elevating 4-OH-BP to the status of a new pollutant that needs more frequent monitoring. Moreover, this study reveals that during biodegradation of benzophenone in river water, the transformation product 4-OH-BP is formed which contain structural alerts for estrogenic activity. By using yeast-based reporter gene assays, this study provides bio-equivalents of 9 BPs, 4-OH-BP, 2,3,4-tri-OH-BP, 4-cresol and benzoate and complements the existing structure-activities relationships of BPs and their degradation products.

Preparation of enzymolysis porous corn starch composite microcapsules embedding organic sunscreen agents and its UV protection performance and stability.

In this paper, a natural composite wall material sunscreen microcapsule was prepared, which significantly improved the SPF value and photostability of the embedded sunscreen agents. Using modified porous corn starch and whey protein as wall materials, the sunscreen agents 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoic acid hexyl ester and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate were embedded by adsorption, emulsion, encapsulation and solidification. The embedding rate of the obtained sunscreen microcapsules was 32.71 % and the average size was 7.98 µm; the enzymatic hydrolyzed starch formed a porous structure, its X-ray diffraction pattern did not change significantly, and the specific volume and oil absorption rate increased by 39.89 % and 68.32 %, respectively, compared with those before enzymatic hydrolyzed; The porous surface of the starch after embedding the sunscreen was covered and sealed with whey protein. 120 h sunscreen penetration rate was lower than 12.48 %; Compared with the lotion containing the same amount of sunscreen but not encapsulated, the SPF value of the lotion containing sunscreen microcapsules increased by 62.24 %, and the photostability of sunscreen microcapsules increased by 66.28 % within 8 h under the irradiation intensity of 25 w/m2. The wall material and the preparation method are natural and environmentally friendly, and have a good application prospect in low-leakage drug delivery system.

Biomineralization: A new tool for developing eco-sustainable Ti-doped hydroxyapatite-based hybrid UV filters.

It is well known that the prolonged exposure to UV radiation from sunlight can compromise human health and is particularly damaging to the skin, leading to sunburn, photo-aging and skin cancer. Sunscreen formulations containing UV-filters present a barrier against solar UV and help to mitigate the harmful effects however, concern about their safety for both human and environmental health is still a much-debated topic. EC regulations classify UV-filters depending on their chemical nature, particle size, and mechanism of action. Furthermore, it regulates their use in cosmetic products with specific limitations in terms of concentration (organic UV filters) and particle size and surface modification to reduce their photo-activity (mineral UV filters). The regulations have prompted researchers to identify new materials that show promise for use in sunscreens. In this work, biomimetic hybrid materials composed of titanium-doped hydroxyapatite (TiHA) grown on two different organic templates, derived from animal (gelatin - from pig skin) and vegetable (alginate - from algae) sources. These novel materials were developed and characterized to obtain sustainable UV-filters as a safer alternative for both human and ecosystem health. This 'biomineralization' process yielded TiHA nanoparticles that demonstrated high UV reflectance, low photoactivity, good biocompatibility and an aggregate morphology which prevents dermal penetration. The materials are safe for topical application and for the marine environment; moreover, they can protect organic sunscreen components from photodegradation and yield long-lasting protection.